Friday it was cloudy, warm and very humid all day. There were forecasts for thunderstorms, but Chora Sfakion only had a few short, light sprinkles of rain. Friends who came down from Anopoli for dinner said it was about 10˚C colder up there, with some rain. We heard from a tourist that on Thursday night on the north coast (Georgioupoli) the wind was so strong that trees were blown down, and a car without its handbrake on was pushed down the street by the wind.
Today has been bright and sunny, but the sea is very rough, and the wind has been getting stronger all day. It was hard to have conversations next to the railings because the sound of the sea is so loud. Surprisingly, all the ferries and taxi boats have been fulfilling their scheduled trips today, although they have all had to dock in the new harbour. And unsurprisingly, there have been several tourists who ventured out onto the old harbour to admire the view and got soaked when the sea broke over the rock wall.
I hiked to Ilingas Beach via the old footpath and gorge. It was possible to swim there with care, although getting out of the sea was a little tricky. When the sea is this rough, the colours are magnificent, since waves pounding the stone beaches carry fine rock silt out to sea in milky plumes.
The new kayak business at Ilingas is still running, and we even saw four kayakers braving the waves this morning. They have installed a shower at the west end of the beach by the cave where they keep their equipment. Here are details of their trips and other info.
Back on the road above Ilingas, usually you find political graffiti on the cement blocks around the curve by the gorge, Now someone has painted a lovely and appropriate poem by Kavafy on it:
Βγάζει η θάλασσα κρυφή φωνή —
φωνή που μπαίνει
μες στην καρδιά μας και την συγκινεί
και την ευφραίνει.
Κ. Π. Καβάφης
"The sea exhales a hidden voice –
a voice that enters
into our heart and moves it
On the walk back, the sea looked dramatic smashing against the village coast. The Xenia hotel had to take up their swimming ladder so that it wouldn’t be bashed by the waves (hopefully when the sea calms down they will put it back in). It wasn’t possible to sit on either of the village beaches this afternoon since the sea was running all the way up to the walls. The Vrisi canoes, which were stacked up in the corner by the shower, got dragged into the sea by large waves, but were rescued by the staff at the 3 Brothers.