On Friday there was light rain on and off in the morning. But the afternoon was sunny and hot out of the wind, and people were swimming off both beaches. We were treated to the full moon in a clear sky, which would have looked spectacular from the decks of the Samaria, which had to wait until after dark for its run to Gavdos because of strong northerly winds during the day.
We talked to a man who had biked up to Omalos from Chania – he said that although the road has fallen away in places, it is open and cars are getting through.
Saturday morning was sunny with a light breeze and the sky was cloudless, so we drove up to Agios Ioannis and walked to Kakosporos. The view to Zaranokefala was clear from the start of the path. It was only 12C up there, but much of the walk is out of wind.
The track through the pine trees was lined with small white flowers and a few red vetch, but not much else is in bloom there, although we did discover one small yellow orchid (pauciflora). Some of the trees are infected with yellow grubs and honey-fungus. There are bright orange patches of lichen on some rocks along the footpath, with small ferns growing in cracks.
At Kakoporos it was sunny and calm. We had wonderful views of Agia Roumeli, with snow on Volakias and Gingilos mountains which tower above it, and the Paleohora peninsula just visible in the distance. Agios Pavlos church stood out clearly on the beach directly below, and four kayaks made their way along the coast to Roumeli. As we had our picnic in the warm sun, a couple of griffon vultures flew by at eye level.
We searched the small Kakosporos ledge for flowers and found a couple of pyramid orchids. There were also white ranunculus, small succulents, and other tiny flowers (which I will put in another posting).
After stopping at Alonia in Agios Ioannis for mountain tea, we drove back down to Sfakia, admiring the yellow asphodels which are out in profusion now. There were heavy clouds over Anopoli, and when we got back to Sfakia we were told there had been a heavy 5-minute rainshower. The rest of the afternoon alternated between strong sun and cloud; after sunset the cold wind forced most people to eat indoors.