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Mouri - Kavros- Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion (May 2019)

Posted: 07 Nov 2020, 13:16
by kokkinos vrachos
Kalimera, I hiked from Mouri via Kavros to the old district Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion. The exact starting point just before the church of Ag. Georgios is unclear to me. I only saw one phone line above the street, not one going south. That's why I'm just from the Church of Ag. Georgios high up in the forest and then kept left there. Then after a while I discovered a telephone pole. Orientation in the forest is then easy, always follow the telephone poles. But there is no way. You just follow the masts on impassable (stony) ground. I guess there is another cistern halfway in the forest. At some point the forest is over and the last telephone pole is on the ground. The next telephone pole cannot be seen. Here you have to keep to the right and go down to the large stable on the gravel road. From the stable you can see the telephone poles again and follow the poles to the abandoned district of Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion.

The hike from the church of Ag. Georgios to Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion was not fun for me, because there is no "way" the whole time and the "way" is difficult to walk. From the church of Ag. Georgios to Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion took me 2.5 hours.

I was very impressed by the village of Kavros, especially the size of the village. In the second house, a shepherd invited me to drink wine. Then had to drink Kokkino Krasi with the shepherd (he already had one in his tea) at 11.00. There was also a shepherd in another house. I spent almost 2 hours in Kavros, browsing and taking photos. For most, it's probably just a few petty old walls of ruins. For me the walls and ruins have history. I love the uninhabited villages. I love the ruined houses. I would like to know more about the history of Kavros.

Ta Leme, kv

Re: Mouri - Kavros- Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion (May 2019)

Posted: 12 Oct 2021, 09:46
by Gerd
Γεια σου Kokkinos,

nice to meet you here. For the path from Kavros down to Georgitsi yu have to follow the dirt road and then descend the valley in Eastern direction, along the wall North of the fields (you might also walk across the fields, which is easier, but neither ecological nor historical correct). At the end of the wall you switch to the Southern side of the valley and soon leave it at a bifurcation, keeping South. Until the cistern the path is clear and mostly marked with red dots. Cf: ... 302!24.132

South of the cistern there is no path and no waymarking. I would prefer descending a bit East of the ridge, because there is more shade. South of the sheep shed Anavasi shows a path, but I feel this is nothng but a "short cut". I would follow the dirt road in Western direction and join the waymarked path to Georgitsi a bit durther down.


Re: Mouri - Kavros- Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion (May 2019)

Posted: 17 Oct 2021, 08:43
by langsten
An interesting thread for me. I did this walk in August. This was the first time in several years, and I had some difficulty when I first entered the pine forest.

But let me start from the beginning. I'll get to Kavros in a bit.

On this day I started from Loutro, walked to, and up, the Illingas gorge to the Timios Stavros church. This was the first time in several years I had done this walk as well, and I had forgotten how interesting and pleasant it is. The first bit of the Illingas gorge, just after leaving the road, is boring. But once the gorge narrows, I enjoyed the walk.

From Timios Stavros I went up the eastern side of the gorge towards Mouri. From the cistern there were a few markings (red dots, cairns), but they soon ended - or at least I was unable to follow them. For most of the way up to Mouri, I was on no particular path and was crawling over many rocks, but the slope is not steep, and there were no points of serious difficulty. Finally, I saw a derelict kalderimi that I knew led up to Mouri, so I went down to it, and had an easy time from there.

From Mouri to Kavros I followed the road. In Kavros I've always gone to the church, and then followed the south wall of a field that is just a bit to the south-east of the church. To the best of my ability to recall there was a cairn indicating time to turn south and follow the telephone poles. I saw what appeared to be a cairn, and turned south into the pine forest. But there were no telephone poles. Nevertheless, I was headed south, and the way was not difficult, and I kept edging a bit to the east in search of telephone poles. I was stressed about coming to a place that was impassible. That didn't happen, and I finally came across the poles. From then on the path was relatively easy again. (It is stones, but all of Sfakia is stones.)

The telephone poles run out at a plateau, still high above the sheepfold and the road, but by then the way is reasonably clear. When the slope starts down again, I also prefer to go slightly to the east of the ridge. There are bits of derelict kalderimi there, and though they are mostly useless, they do suggest that that was the preferred route in the past when kalderimis were the only way to get around.

I head for a tree that stands alone to the east of the sheepfold. There is a path down to the sheepfold from there.

Below the sheepfold, the Anavasi map is correct. Basically the path again follows the telephone poles (to the extent they still exist). There are also some bits of derelict kaldermini going down towards Georgitis, above where the old path becomes clear.

I got down to Chora Sfakion in time to get the evening ferry back to Loutro.

NOTES: It would be very helpful if the path up (and down) the eastern wall of the gorge between Timios Stavros and Mouri were better marked. In the past I have always found this path difficult to follow - whether going up or down.

Also, it would be helpful to mark the path from Kavros, whether from the road or from the church, to where one can find the telephone poles.

More comments on walks in Sfakia in due time.


Re: Mouri - Kavros- Georgitsi / Chora Sfakion (May 2019)

Posted: 18 Oct 2021, 06:40
by kokkinos vrachos
Kalimera Gerd and Ray, thank you very much for your interesting comments.

kali evdomada, kv