There are still enough tourists around, but slowly things are winding down. The Three Brothers restaurant over the beach is now closed for the season, and the Gavdos cruiser was taken out of the water for the winter last week. We watched Nuri the waiter removing sun shades from over the Alkyon Hotel.
The morning was overcast, warm, humid, and totally calm, sapping one’s energy. In the afternoon, we decided to drive down the coast a way for a different view and short walk. We stopped first at Orthi Ammos beach to see if there are still some sea daffodils in bloom (there are), then continued to Agia Marina, taking in the hazy view over to Plakias before descending the crumbling road to the beach. We carried on across Peresteres beach to the end, where there is now a sign commemorating the famous WWII event when the German general was kidnapped and smuggled out of Crete from that spot.
We clambered up onto the headland and enjoyed the views and the blossoming shrubs– one with tiny compact flowers (Thymelaea hirsute) and another which has leaves in spirals around delicate flowers (probably Daphne gnidioides, but there were no red fruits on the plant). There are also large lentisk (mastic) shrubs which are so perfectly shaped that they look manicured.
On the east side of the headland you can see Polyrizos beach, a few small tavernas and accommodation – some are still open. Although it was still overcast, the sun was shining weakly on the hills by Moni Preveli, and we could make out Timios Stavros church on top of one peak, with Schinaria beach below it.
We retraced our steps to Agia Marina for a late afternoon swim by the rock stacks, enjoying the views from the sea of the mountains looming darkly to the north, and the cliffs that look like melted rock at one end of the beach.
There was a pre-wedding party in Komitades for Sifis Amiras (from the taxi/ supermarket business) last night, and when the party-goers returned to the village in the early hours of the morning, they woke everyone up by shooting off many rounds of bullets in celebration.