Sfakia Report, Oct 28-29 – exotic fish, Dasklogiannis cave, Roumeli, signs
This morning, for the second time in the past week, I have seen a beautiful exotic fish when swimming out near the rocks – a lion fish (pterois miles). These have been invading the Mediterranean via the Suez canal over the past several years, along with other species. These fish have poisonous barbs on their fins and will sting anything that approaches them (inflicting mild pain on humans); fortunately, they are at least very good to eat in fish soup.
There are more signs of the end of season. Restaurant staff now have time for the beach, for just sitting around, and for having drinks with friends in the late evening; although they are all tired, they are smiling more, because they can see the light at the end of the work tunnel. Interiors are getting a deep clean. For several days, a small boat has been bringing tables, chairs etc. back from Sweetwater beach.
There is a large cave at sea level (not visible from the water) not too far from Vrisi beach (after the sea cave that you can see) in which the rebel leader Daskalogiannis hid with his men in the 18th century; it is said that they even minted coins there. Today we tried to visit it by boat, but the sea was too rough to allow us to jump off Kosta’s small craft. So two of us decided to swim there instead; clambering up on the rocks was a bit tricky with the sea swell, then we ascended the rock piles and entered the cave from the left side. The cave is very high and wide inside, and there are rock/earth falls in several places in the center, with evidence of lots of pigeons living there. Because we didn’t have a torch we didn’t explore the dark tunnel-like area far back in the cave. Next year we’ll try to go in with a torch and cameras.
Friends who took the boat to Agia Roumeli yesterday reported several interesting things. The shuttle bus between the lower village and the ticket booth is still running, saving tired walkers 3km for only €2. A (literal) sign of the times appears in several places in the Samaria Gorge, forbidding the use of drones. And as in other villages, you can find shipping containers that have been converted into living quarters.
Another sign of the times has appeared on Ilingas beach, saying that it has been cleaned and asking people to keep it clean.
The sun set tonight dramatically through a thin cloud bank. The ferry boat was lit up against the dark sky, with a sliver of moon hanging over it.